It's been awhile but I am back with something a bit different than what I normally write. I recently became the owner of a pair of vintage fetish heels and noticed that a lot of people did not really understand what they are or my fascination around them. So, here it goes the history of the fetish heel and why it is so sexy.
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circa 1900 |
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famous shoe collector Tana Louise |
Up until the 1900s the foot was practically hidden, the foot and shoes slowly began showing themselves more and more. As the foot became more noticeable so did the urge to make it not only functional but fashionable. As trade began to really flourish more with more lands, it was the eastern hemisphere that become more into the dressing of the foot. (This was a time where showing a bit of ankle was scandalous...) So the more covered up something was when you saw it undressed the more exciting it was to see. To no surprise it was about the mid 19th century that underground pornography began to make its way around. Which is a lot different from what you will see today. There were some of the first heels made just for the pure pleasure of foot fetishist. They had heels that were 6 inches tall or were thigh high boots that laced to the top. These are still key descriptions of modern fetish shoes as well.
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Photo by Guyette |
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circa 1900 |
Now some background... the man that came up with the term "masochism" was Leopold Von Sacher-Masoch who was famous for writing the highly erotic
Venus in Furs, which was about female domination. The man who we can probably thank the word "fetish" was Nicolas Edme Restif de la Bretonne who was a French novelist and the word for shoe fetish "retifism" was named after him. He wrote about women and the legalization of prostitution among other subjects but most focused around sex and other fetishes. Then you have photographer and artist Charles Guyette, who was the very first person to make and distribute fetish memorabilia in the United States. He dabbled in burlesque wear such as corsets, gloves, famously made G-strings and of course fetish shoes that were custom made. Although he came a bit later in the game he became the first, lets say martyr in the history of fetish. He was jailed in 1935 for distributing his art but was later working under different names to go undetected. A lot of his work to this day is unaccredited. He was a major inspiration to many of the modern day fetish idols. Irving Klaw, Bettie Page, John Willie, Eric Stanton and Dita Von Teese have all credited him as a major inspiration to their work.
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By John Willie |
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By John Willie |
Now for one of my favorite artists, John Willie. Willie grew up during the Edwardian era and that was a time when sex was so repressed that may just give you some reasoning into why he loved the things he did. He had everything going for him until he married a night club hostess without the permission. They moved to Australia and divorced 5 years later. In 1926 he joined the high heel lover club where he met his second wife Holly Ana. She became his muse and often modeled for him. She had his ideal body type tall and slender, which transferred to his artwork. That is when he began to make his own artwork of illustrations and photography. In 1945 he began the most influential fetish magazine of all time called Bizarre where he used the name John Willie. Willie put photographs and illustrations in the
magazine of women in lingerie tied up or being whipped. Women being gagged or had facial harnesses on. They even had a shoe section that had actual photos of heels that did not even seem possible along with Willie's drawings of the foot and heels and how they interacted with each other. The magazine had 26 issues after having to call its end. But in 1997 another magazine which also had fetish themes came about, (and I believe it was in homage to Willie) but the last issue ran in 2015.
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Bettie Page by Irving Klaw with shoe collection |
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Bettie Page by Irving Klaw |
In the 1950's a raven haired beauty was found lounging on the beach and was asked if a man could photograph her. She said yes and was so photogenic and was so natural at it he told her to model but gave her one piece of advice... to get bangs. If you don't already know who I am talking about that model is none other than the Bettie Page. Bettie is one if not the most photographed women of all time although most of her work will never be seen, but we will get to Bettie Page is still the most famous fetish model credited with wearing the heels too. Bettie began modeling for Irving and Paula Klaw in 1952 at Movie Star News who sold photos and postcards of movie stars and later BDSM and fetish themed photos. They were even selling Charles Guyette's work. But Klaw's fetish/pin up/bondage work was considered pornography at the time and was illegal to send through the mail. But all good things must come to an end, in the late 1950's, the final years of the Klaw studios both Irving and Bettie were on trial for pornography and one night he made the decision to destroy most of his inventory to save himself and his starlets but his sister Paula managed to save some of the movies and shots. She never thought that anything she did was bad and often thought she was playing a character. She was even Playmate of the month in January 1955 for Playboy which then made her a small household name.
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Louboutin's ballet stiletto |
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Bettie Page's shoes belonging to Dita Von Teese |
Most of the clothing Bettie wore she made herself unless it was a specialty item or corset. But the shoes were often brought in just for the girls to wear to be photographed in. Klaw had a small collection he kept as well. But burlesque queen, modern day pin up and best selling author Dita Von Teese had always heard a rumor that there was still a trunk of Bettie Page's old fetish heels. The trunk soon came up for auction and Dita bought a pair which happened to be one of Bettie's favorite pairs which she was often photographed in.
With the resurgence of vintage fashion, burlesque and even Dita's following the fetish heel has made a comeback. You can get yourself a pair for about $80-$1,000 today. There are all kinds but most tend to follow the 5-7 inch heel with no platform made of leather or patent leather, and are mostly black, red or maybe white. They include the ballet heels which is just what they sound like, an en pointe slipper with a heel. You have the thigh high lace up boots. The tall heel with the classic ankle strap and the ones that are so tall you cannot stand. Louboutin, McQueen and even Pleaser have all come out with their own version of what could be considered a 'fetish heel.'
But to me there is just something so beautiful about how the foot is perfectly up on its toe to make the foot look so exotic and unreal. There is something about the power you feel when you're wearing heels even if they are so tall you can barely stand in them. These are all shoes of my dreams and I cannot wait to grow my collection. Stay tuned to my instagram for more photos of mine!!
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Me wearing my fetish heels photo by Autumn Luciano for Decadence Dolls |